Building a tiny RC truck that you can drive around is not as difficult as you might first think! And once you do finish building it you'll want somewhere to drive it...
This video will take you through absolutely everything you need to know in order to build the tiny HO scale truck as well as building the course for it to drive on!
It's much easier than you think and the IFA W50 from tiny4x4 is a great starter model to build if you've never built one of these tiny RC vehicles before.
There are a few extra 3D printed details I added to the model, I printed an air intake, exhaust and some tiny extremely fragile mirrors!
If you want to try printing these details you'll be able to find them here:
I hope you enjoy watching and if you have any questions feel free to leave a comment 😉
Realistic Scenery Vol.25 is well underway! A lot has been happening and there are heaps of new tips and tricks that I'll be demonstrating in the latest scenery video!
As you can see it not quite finished but the end is in sight! The process is being filmed from start to end and it will soon become Realistic Scenery Vol.25.
The model is being specifically designed to fit on the shelving area behind the workbench and it will have the ability to connect to future modules that will be built later on down the track 🚂
There are quite a number of new tips and techniques that I'll be demonstrating in the video.
The rural bitumen road is one of those examples, it's made using a technique that was a bit of an experiment and to be honest I wasn't entirely sure it would work but thankfully in thje end the result turned out quite nice.
It resembles an old bitumen road with a loose rock surface, it was made using some Mig Tarmac Textured paint and then sanded back slightly. The sand texture imbedded in the paint was just a little coarse for HO scale but from the normal viewing distance it doesn't look too bad.
If I were to do this again I'd try mixing up my own textured paint with a finer grit sand to get a result better suited to HO scale.
The track I used is code 55 rail, I actually 3D printed all of the wooden ties so they would be a perfect match to the prototype and then thread the ties onto the rail.
Because the ties and tiny little spikes that hold the rail are 3D printed in resin they are super fragile, so you'll need to be very careful not to bust them when handling the track.
You might also recognise this bridge. it's the same bridge from a previous realistic scenery video.
The original diorama was slowly being dismantled for trees and this bridge was all that remained, this was the perfect opportunity to give it a second life, I did have to shorten the bridge a little but I think it fits the scene nicely.
Now all that needs to be done to finish the video are trees, grass and all the tiny details like signs, fences, seat and people.
It's really turning out to be a fun little module!
Having never actually built anything like this before I was a little apprehensive at first simply due to the size of the components! These kits also come with absolutely no instructions which makes assembly all that much more difficult.
The good news is that there are build guides available on YouTube.
In the end this project was so much fun to complete and being able to take a cruise through my tiny worlds brings them to life in a whole new way.
It the video above I'll basically take you on a journey through the process of building one of these amazing models. A set of written instructions would have been great which is partly why I decided to film this detailed tutorial.
One of the techniques used in the construction process that often draws attention is the process of annealing the brass.
Typically the annealing process will harden metal like steel however with brass it softens the metal.
To anneal the brass you simply use a torch and heat the part until it glows orange, next the brass is quenched in cool water however for such a small part most experienced builders find that quenching is not necessary, the part often cools to room temperature quite fast.
Now the part can be gently bent without risking the part cracking although you still need to be cautious of bending and working the brass multiple times because that will cause the part to become brittle and snap.
For parts that need to be bent multiple times you may need to anneal prior to each bend.
Additionally, you can hide the interior by adding tinted windows. I didn't do that process in the video however it isn't too difficult to do with some packaging plastic or even sticky tape.
If you do decide to purchase one of these kits you will find it at https://www.tiny4x4.com/das87/ which is where I bought mine, I also purchased the electronics from them as well.
One of the biggest tricks to creating an extremely realistic model is always keeping in mind how the model will interact with the background. For example, I will usually try to avoid having the edge of the diorama being a straight line.
In the latest video this was the biggest challenge and I used a few different methods to blend the edges with the background scene.
There are a number of ways to hide or eliminate a straight edge;
As you’ll notice in the bridge model there is a straight edge along the waters edge that is unavoidable. The only practical way of hiding this edge is to round the corner so the lip caused from the resin raising up the tape is below the main water level of the river. That way you will reduce any harsh reflections from the edge.
Even by rounding the edge of the river it will still be noticeable to the trained eye so this is where photoshop steps in, if the model has been built right you should only need a very minimal amount of photoshop feathering to hide/blur the edge.
If all else fails try to set the camera up at such an angle so the water edge is not visible, depending on the size and shape of the model this may be impractical however the bridge diorama is very narrow with quite a long straight edge but it even with the long dimensions of the diorama the water edge can still be hidden resulting is a pretty awesome shot.
In addition to hiding the edges photographing the model in natural sunlight greatly helps, having shark shadows and natural white light is surprisingly effective at making a scene look much more realistic.
And lastly to really fool the eye you can always add a filter to the image, this will often hide imperfections in color that are often the biggest giveaway on a model. It can be very hard finding a good color pallet that matches your background scene but once you do find colors that match your model will just vanish into the surrounding scenery… which is a good sign 😉
Wow, what can I say! This was a huge undertaking that took over a month to complete and it was enjoyable every step of the way!
There were quite a lot of repetitive steps which do become somewhat tedious after a while which could also explain why this build took so long. At any stage I felt unmotivated I took a break which actually helped keep me motivated over the long term.
Another aspect that causes these videos to take so long is the act of filming all the steps of the process. It doesn’t seem too difficult to someone who isn’t familiar with making tutorial videos but to give you an idea, the camera has to be set up for every shot. I keep moving the camera around during any one particular shot to get a number of different angles which also keeps viewers engaged, and sometimes I’ll repeat a step 5 or 6 times just to get the right angle.
I could even estimate how many hours I spent on this model… but in terms of footage, I ended up recording exactly 16 hours 9 minutes and 4 second. That would probably be about 1 fifth of the actual time spent as a lot of the construction of this model was not filmed simply because it was the same step repeated over and over.
Some of the mistakes I learnt from on this model was not doing enough sanding and filling, if you look closely there are a lot of small gaps, if I was to build this model again I would spend a bit more time filling and sanding the gaps to get a nicer finish, that said, this model went together exceptionally well and to be honest not a lot of filling and sanding would actually be required.
Another mistake I made was gluing the finished units together, I used Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane Glue) which was fine however on the first two units I put way too much glue and some oozed out in areas I didn’t intend, on the remaining units I only put a fraction off the amount of glue and it was perfect. So the lesson was to only use a tiny bit of glue, polyurethane glue is very strong so for a light model like this it is well and truly more than capable of holding it together.
Some may say the interiors are overkill and while yes they added a ridiculous amount of time to the construction of this model they do look good, it’s very hard to show through the lens but when viewed in person the interiors look very cool. If I had to build a lot of these building I’d probably skip on the interiors but I’d definitely add the window lighting and curtains, it would be very easy to do with LED strip lights and would easily half the amount of time it took to build this model.
If you’d like to see some extra photos of this awesome model you can see them here in the High Rise Photo Gallery:
And for those of you who are interested in this kit or other similar kits like this check out Custom Model Railroads
I purchased this kit myself, I’m not being sponsored to tell you about them but I can certainly say this kit was a lot of fun to build and not all that difficult to construct!