Who would have thought melting metal could result in such an amazing amount of detail... The process of using acid to etch metal objects has been used for hundreds of years and it's perfect for creating ultra detailed parts for our models.
In this tutorial I'll show you how to use the Micro-Mark Pro Etch Photo Etch System to create awesome brass and copper details that can be used as additions to improve and add detail to models however you can also create one off stand alone pieces as well.
In the Pro Etch kit you'll receive the chemicals required however if you live outside the United States then you'll have to source your chemicals locally and this can be problematic for some...
They use Ferric Chloride as the etchant in the kit however for me obtaining Ferric Chloride at a reasonable price is something of a mission! So as a substitute I used the following chemicals at a ratio of 2:1. The Hydrochloric Acid is available from the hardware store and Hydrogen Peroxide is available from the supermarket of chemists.
As for the developing solution I simply used Washing Soda which is easily available from the supermarket.
By watching the video tutorial you'll have everything you need to know to successfully make your very own photo etched parts. It's a lengthy process however after you've tried it a couple of times it will become second nature and you'll be making photo etched parts without even batting an eyelid.
This kit is available from Micro-Mark and you can save 10% of you shopping cart by using the promo code 'boulder'.
Just remember that if you do purchase an etching kit to order the correct kit as they cannot send the corrosive chemicals outside of the US.
Boulder creek railroad is a YouTube channel that is partly supported by the fans, if you too would like to help support the channel and receive some of the perks I have for supporters be sure to check out my patron page.
Building models from scratch can be difficult… but with a bit of practice and some patience you’ll be surprised how easy it is to build something that you’ll be proud of!
Styrene is usually the material of choice for a lot of modelers who scratch build models however you can use all sorts of materials like balsa wood, bass wood, different types of plastic, paper and even recycled material from around the house.
⇩ LIST OF STYRENE USED AND TUTORIAL VIDEO AT BOTTOM OF PAGE ⇩
Even for very creative people it can prove difficult to come up with a building right of the top of your head and that’s why I always do a little research before I start. It might be as simple as looking at a picture online or it might involve going on a road trip with my camera in hand to get the images I want that will ultimately inspire me when I start scratch building.
Having a wide variety of tools certainly makes scratch building much easier but it’s by no means entirely necessary, you can build a fantastic building simply using a sharp hobby knife, a pencil and a metal ruler. However I like to do as much as I can to make my life easier and in the video I demonstrate the use of many different tools that are specifically designed for scratch building in mind.
Many of the tools I use like the 'Chop-It', ‘Duplicate-It’, Corner Punch, Adjustable Magnetic Clamps, Airbrush Moisture Trap were all purchased from Micro-Mark.
For those interested, you can get 10% of you shopping cart at the checkout by using the promo code ‘boulder’ exclusive to viewers and fans of boulder creek railroad.
Stay tuned in the future as I’m working on an e-book about building with styrene and I’ll also be posting more specific plans on how I built this building on my website with measurements and a parts list.
If you're planning on adding a water scene to your layout or diorama then you'll certainly be interested in watching this tutorial. It's full of tips, tricks and techniques that will help you get the best result you can when it comes time to modeling your own water scene.
It's quite a long tutorial... It's the longest tutorial I've filmed so far but when it comes to modeling rivers it's something I don't want to just breeze over, rivers can be easy to mess up so I've made sure to give you all you need to know in order to successfully model your very own river scene.
Getting a good rippling effect can also take some practice when using the airbrush technique, so that is another reason to do a small test piece first. The good news about the ripple effect when using Mod Podge is that if you aren't happy with result the Mod Podge will easily peel away from the resin once it has dried.
Hope you enjoy the video and if you too have some tips or techniques feel free to share them in the comments.
P.S. Just to remind those who are new here, if you shop at Micro-Mark to buy hobby supplies, tools and materials you can use the promo code 'boulder' and that will take 10% of the price of your cart when you check out.
If you're a follower of my YouTube channel you may be thinking not much has been happening for the past month... In fact I've been very busy building the river diorama that will feature in the next tutorial.
The tutorial has been in the process of filming for at least the last 3 weeks and I just finished filming, all up there is over 12 hours of raw video footage that needs compiling and editing however this process can happen quite quickly.
I'm hoping to condense the footage down to a tutorial that will be about 25 - 30 minutes long.
The river is made using Envirotex Lite which is a high quality two part epoxy resin.
It's very easy to use and the results really speak for them self. Ripples are added using mod podge gloss which is quite a common medium to use for adding soft ripples however I took it a step further in order to get the prefect looking ripples for a medium flowing river as can be seen in the top photo and the photo below.
The technique is thoroughly explained in the tutorial.
I'm working very hard to get this video finished, I expect it to be completed before this weekend... possibly a couple of days earlier.
Back in 2013 I was looking for a hobby to satisfy my need to be artistic and creative, as a kid I used to build all sorts of models (mostly aircraft) but once I left school and entered the hunt for work all that got left behind.
It took over 10 years but once I found myself in a stable job and the family was settled I had plenty of spare time to fill… that’s when trains caught my attention. There’s something oddly satisfying about building a miniature scene and having an actual moving model drive through the scene.
Believe it or not the whole motivation for filming and uploading videos to YouTube was not to create a brand and a following but rather to create an archive of videos on different methods and techniques I used to create specific scenes. Not long after getting into the scenery creation side of model making I’d build this amazing scene using a range of different techniques and when I’d come back a few weeks later to try and replicate what I’d done I would completely forget what I did and how I did it! So now I could step back and clearly see how I achieved a particular result by watching my past videos.
Before I knew it I was seeing consistent growth on the channel and people were liking what was being uploaded, that’s when I decided to step up the game and start putting a lot more effort into the production and started using better editing programs and watching video editing tutorials on YouTube.
Now that brings me to where we are today, I never imagined the channel would attract such a following but one thing hasn’t changed… I still upload videos to remind myself how I achieve a particular method or technique!
So thank you for being here and supporting the channel.
Often the greatest model scenes are packed full of detail that often goes unnoticed! So you may be thinking what’s the point?
The human mind is a very tough critique when it comes to spotting things that look out of place so when a person looks at a scene and all those fine details you spent hours perfecting appear to go unnoticed you should take that as a compliment.
Too often do I see some amazing model scenery only to notice a vehicle that has been randomly placed on the road straight from the box it came in and it looks totally out of place not to mention it’s in the middle of the road and driverless…
In the tutorial I demonstrate some simple techniques for weathering and detailing the flatbed truck, the techniques can be applied to any vehicle. I also created a template for the crates I built which you can download and modify so you can build your very own details.
You can click on this link to download the MS word template and to modify the size simply click on the image and drag it to increase or decrease the size. Or you can download a PDF version however you may not be able to modify its size easily.
You made it to the bottom!
As you know I use a number of different modeling tools and the tool I use the most right now is the 'Chop-It' from Micro-Mark. To help you out... and lets not beat around the bush but it also helps me out... I have a unique code that you can use at Micro-Mark to get 10% off your shopping cart.
The promo code is BOULDER.
So feel free to go have a browse at http://www.micromark.com/
Thank you for getting this far, I hope you continue to enjoy the videos and tutorials.
It's a pleasure building with strip wood, it's very easy to work with and the end results come fast and look great!
So far today I've been experimenting and testing different processes for making a large factory full of these crates... that happen to be perfect for the pumpkins my wife bought for me nearly 6 months ago! They were just waiting for the perfect scene and now I've found it.
As I work on the video tutorial I've decided to provide you all with a short written tutorial on the process with a few pictures and as a 'Patron' bonus the template that I use will be able to be downloaded over on Patreon.com
But don't worry if you're not a patron because I'll add a link to download the template for these crates once I finish filming the video tutorial.
First off you'll need some scale lumber, I used Midwest Products Scale Lumber for this project and the parts used were:
Using a template makes it much easier, you can draw a template using pen and paper however for more accuracy you can also draw one using Photoshop or a similar program which is what I did.
Next it's just a matter of preparing the strip wood and laying it down over the template, if you wondering how to make laying the strips down much easier without them moving at the slightest bump or breeze then I suggest watching the pallets tutorial video, the spray adhesive is used in the same way here to add tackiness to the template.
I use super glue to attach the vertical beams, wood glue will work and most craft glues will work as well however you want to be sure they are water proof once dry because if you apply the wash over everything once the crate is assembled it may fall to bits!
Using a sharp knife I then cut at the spots shown in the image below to separate all four sides of the crate and trim away the excess wood from the very edges of the template.
This is easily done using the 'Chop-It', also if you aren't already aware... you can get 10% off your Micro-Mark order by using the promo code 'boulder'.
You should be left with four pieces like shown below and then it's just a matter of glutting them together to build up the main box structure.
The crate is then positioned and glued to the base section and again using the 'Chop-It' I carefully trim the excess overhang away.
As for painting, you have many options but what I've found easiest and yields the best results is to simply dip the entire crate into a heavily diluted cup of india ink and water.
I hope you managed to pick up a tip or two and be sure to stay tuned to my YouTube channel, I have just started filming the video for this tutorial so it should be released quite soon.
Working with styrene is something I haven't done a lot of over the past couple of years and after using strip styrene to create these awesome looking pallets I've found it to be a very forgiving material to work with and the end result can be very rewarding.
The most challenging part of making these pallets was getting the look of wood, it was actually much easier than I anticipated. Simply dragging the completed pallet across 120 grit sandpaper did the trick... However it's the process of painting and dry brushing the pallets that truly brings out all that amazing detail.
Now that I've done the pallets video I'm starting to look at doing some boxes and crates however instead of using styrene I'll show the process of using strip wood and the differences when working with that material as opposed to styrene.
They certainly both have their ups and downs!
Also in the not to distant future I'll be working with the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water to make a river scene, the diorama base is completed with rocks and all so now it's just a matter of filming the process of doing the water.
PALLETS TO REWARD PATRONS
If you don't already know, I have a 'Patreon' site that enables fans and others who really enjoy watching my videos to donate to the channel and help finance the videos, more than anything it helps me stay motivated and focused on making videos.
As a reward I have some perks for those that donate, most recently I changed the $10 reward to include a set of three pallets that you see me make in the video. If you're interested in helping fund the YouTube channel and also would like your own home made pallets from me you might like to go and check it out?
I’ve previously built and filmed the making of a great static grass applicator however over time I have seen the opportunity for improvement.
Portability and reliable power are two areas I’ve been looking into as well as size and durability. When it comes to tools and equipment we often think that small should mean cheaper and less effective however, what I’m after is a smaller stronger and more effective tool.
Thus the static grass applicator mark 2 was born…
It’s certainly not the cheapest method for building an applicator but I can bet you it will last a lot longer and give you fantastic results wherever you decide to make your scenery.
These results shown are specifically using the 9 Volt battery only. When using the external power you will get slightly better results although the difference is not immediately noticeable however you will notice that when using the external power and a 12 Volt supply you can hold the applicator further away from the surface and are still able to have the grass fibers easily stand on end.
If you are planning on building one of these applicators just be aware that the heart of the applicator is the Negative Ion Generator and this will determine your results! There are some cheap generators available on eBay however just be warned that these are cheap for a reason… mainly due to the fact they have a much lower output voltage and that is what determines the effectiveness of the static grass applicator.
Most cheap generators have a nominal voltage between 4-6kV however the applicator I’m using has a nominal voltage of 15kV when powered with a 12 Volt power supply so the results will naturally be a lot better.
I purchased mine from Oatley Electronics or you can order from eBay
I’m currently in the process of writing an eBook on making and operating this static grass applicator and I’ll keep you updated once it’s finished. If you’re serious about scenery then making or purchasing a static grass applicator is a must!
Every time I film a tutorial I’m always trying/looking for ways to improve, if I’ve learnt anything so far it is that it takes time, patience and practice… just like building scale models.
As part of my goal of continued improvement with my YouTube channel and website I’ve decided to spend a few dollars to improve the environment I film in.
So it looks like I'm going to have another busy year building models and filming tutorials for 2017.... And I'm really looking forward to it :)
Also, if you made it this far, I want to thank everyone who is subscribed to my YouTube channel and a very special thank you to my supporters on Patreon! Without your help and support I wouldn't be able to make these videos.
When I'm not working or spending time with the family I'm building models.